West of Ochi, the coast road sees plenty of tourist traffic, though the invasiveness of large-scale development is generally restricted to beachside – such as at the established resort neighbours of Runaway Bay and Discovery Bay. Elsewhere, low-key guesthouses and boutique hotels can be sought out. With its thriving market and Georgian architecture interspersed with weather-beaten clapboard houses, St Ann’s Bay is the small, unpretentious capital of St Ann, while the ruined Spanish capital of Seville is just a few minutes away. Further west, the boundary of St Ann and Trelawny parishes marks a distinct change in the landscape, from languid hills to rugged hillocks. Undeveloped yet energetic interior communities like Brown’s Town and Alexandria perch on the fringes of Cockpit Country, close to the stunning cross-country B3 route to Mandeville. Inland, Bob Marley’s Mausoleum remains the only major attraction.

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