Capital of Westmoreland it may be, but there’s little to keep you in commercial SAVANNA-LA-MAR (known to most people simply as Sav). It’s the area’s main shopping centre, but as the profusion of low-lying concrete keeps the air still, it’s a hot and uncomfortable place and most people depart as quickly as possible. As it lies almost at sea level, successive hurricanes have flattened Sav through the centuries; in 1748 the wind drove the sea far enough up needle-straight thoroughfare Great George Street that boats were left dry-docked in the middle of the road. Today, most of the main street is taken up with pharmacies and general stores selling an assortment of imported designer bootlegs, though this is also the place to go if you want true yardstyle string vests, bandannas, barely-there dancehall attire or reggae music from street vendors, all at half the price of those at Negril. Great George Street ends abruptly at the seashore, where you’ll find a rough-around-the-edges fruit and vegetable market (Mon–Sat 7am–1pm), and two remaining high walls of an eighteenth-century fort that the British never completed.

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