At one time these two villages in the southeastern corner of Westmoreland parish were easily distinguishable separate entities, but, as with much development in Jamaica these days, there’s now just one extended urban area. A prominent south coast fishing port, WHITEHOUSE offers little beach life but plenty of commercial bustle with a fruit and vegetable market (Wed & Sat) and fishing beach, where on afternoons you can see huge hessian bags of flapping specimens weighed and bartered over, while women scale furiously. Boats return here from trips that can last as long as a week, with the fish transported islandwide. A variety of basic stalls at the market cook up a taste of the fresh catch at lunchtime – washed down with white rum, and a reggae beat to aid digestion.

Whitehouse’s satellite Culloden boasts greater sleepiness and all the decent accommodation hereabouts; the Sandals Whitehouse European Village and Spa lies just to the north, the first full-scale resort on Jamaica’s south coast on a formerly beautiful beach-fringed isthmus and crocodile swamp, with a large reef just offshore. Its name does beg the question, nonetheless, why anyone would come to rural Jamaica to stay in a European village.

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