The sunset view from the West End, Jamaica’s extreme westerly point, is the best you’ll see. Most evenings the sky blazes with absurdly rich oranges, pinks and blues that intensify as the sun dips behind the horizon, eventually merging into the deepest of blues, with the moon reflected way out to sea. Sunset-watching is an institution; most bars and restaurants offer sunset happy hours and the half-hour or so before dusk is the closest the West End gets to hectic. Coach parties descend in droves upon Negril’s biggest (and rather tired) cliché, Rick’s Café, the venue of sunset cliff-diving demonstrations by local boys, who enjoy being the centre of attention while cameras click, drinks are paid for with plastic tokens and (very average) bands churn out Marley classics. Though the cliffs are at their highest around Rick’s, many other hotels and restaurants are superb for a sunset drink and swim; best is probably the LTU Pub (next to Rick’s), though the Sands bar at the Caves hotel has an exclusive air, and the Rockhouse boasts sea access from a stylish bar and restaurant, and complete seclusion. Drumville Cove also has a friendly attitude towards non-guests and a spectacular portion of cliff.