The Martha Brae River, Trelawny’s longest waterway, is notable chiefly for relaxing rafting trips. If you want to have a go, follow the battered signs from Falmouth to the put-in point at Rafter’s Village, which has a small (underused) swimming pool, bar, and decent gift shop. The leisurely trip begins with complimentary rum punch and takes you past banks overhung with silk cotton, mango, and towering banyan trees festooned with vines. There are a few craft stalls, floating bars and a constant mosquito offensive – bring repellent.

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