The grimy suburb of JOCOTENANGO, “place of bitter fruit”, is set around a huge, dusty plaza where there’s a weathered, dusty-pink Baroque church. In colonial times, Jocotenango was the gateway to Antigua, where official visitors would be met to be escorted into the city. Long notorious for its seedy bars, the town’s main industries are coffee production and woodcarving. There’s an excellent selection of bowls and fruits in the family-owned Artesanías Cardenas Barrios workshop on Calle San Felipe, where they have been working at the trade for five generations.

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