Looking down on the colonial centre, beyond the end of Simón Bolívar, in a more run-down part of town, stand a dilapidated church, the Ermita de Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria de la Popa del Barco – known locally as La Popa – and a brand-new five-star hotel, the Pansea Trinidad. This is the last line of buildings before the town dissolves into the countryside and marks the start of a rewarding, fifteen-minute walk up the Loma de la Vigía, the hill against which Trinidad is set. A dirt track takes you to the summit where, within the grounds of a radio station, the lush landscape of the Valle de los Ingenios on the other side of the hill is revealed, as well as views back across the town and down to the coast. Back down at La Popa you can cut across to the Las Cuevas hotel complex on the adjoining hillside, where non-guests can use the only publicly accessible swimming pool in the town.

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