Lined with tall trees, the verdant Parque España (three blocks east and two blocks north of Plaza de la Cultura) is surrounded by several excellent museums. On the western corner, facing Avenida 5, stands the Edificio Metálica (Metal Building, also known as the “Escuela Metálica”), so-called because its exterior is made entirely out of metal plates shipped from France over a hundred years ago. Though the prospect sounds dour, the effect – especially the bright multicoloured courtyard as seen from the Museo del Jade, high above – is very pretty, if slightly military. Just west of Parque España lies Parque Morazón, more a concrete-paved square than a park proper. It’s centred on the landmark grey-domed bandstand floridly known as the Templo de Música.

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