The bus from Montezuma to Cabo Blanco (see Reserva Natural Absoluta Cabo Blanco) runs past Cabuya; the road is rough, so you’ll need a 4WD if driving yourself. Another rough, and hilly, road links Cabuya with Mal País; it’s only driveable in a 4WD, and a water crossing often makes the road impassable in the rainy season.
Welcoming El Ancla de Oro (t 2642-0369, w www.caboblancopark.com/ancla; $20–29) has rustic cabins, with mosquito nets and fans, placed among fruit trees; there are also some self-catering “jungalows”. Nearby, the Hotel Cabo Blanco (t 2642-0332; $40–54) is set right on a gentle beach with good swimming; the rooms come with fan or air conditioning and TV, and there’s a swimming pool if you just can’t face the short walk to the beach. Just before you enter the village, Hotel Celaje (t 2642-0372, w www.celaje.com; closed Sept to mid-Nov; $75–99) is a Belgian-owned beachside beauty with six palm-roofed bungalows that come with two beds with mosquito nets and small bathrooms. There’s an inviting swimming pool, a bar and restaurant. You can stock up on groceries at two mini-markets or eat cheap typical food at Cabyuya’s two sodas; about 200m north of town, munch on decent pizza, washed down with a thick fruit smoothie, at Café el Coyote.