From the Bureta airstrip on the island of Ovalau, a dirt track winds inland, following the Bureta River to Lovoni village, one of the island’s star attractions. The village was made infamous by the fierce tribe who lived behind an impregnable hillfort in the centre of the volcanic crater here (they’ve since moved to a more practical location just to the side).

The easiest way to visit is by road with Epi’s Tours (763 7546 or 923 6011, owlfiji.com/epi.htm; F$45 includes lunch), although note that this involves a bone-crunching ride from Levuka in the back of a carrier van followed by a two-hour lecture on the history of Lovoni. A more rewarding alternative is to take a guided hike with Nox (see Activities around Levuka) starting from Draiba village, a few kilometres south of Levuka. This is the shortest trail from the coast but it still takes a tough couple of hours through thick rainforest before you reach the dramatic setting of the crater – arrange for a carrier van to bring you back by road. You can also approach Lovoni from Bobo’s Farm or Salana Village Stay, although these are both full-day hikes.

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