Heathcote National Park, across the Princes Highway from the Royal National Park, is much smaller and quieter. This is a serious bushwalkers’ park with no roads and a ban on trail bikes. You can follow the fairly hilly Bullawarring Track (12km one way; 5hr; moderate difficulty) north from Waterfall station and join a later train from Heathcote. The track weaves through a variety of vegetation, including scribbly gums with their intriguing bark patterns, and spectacular gymea lilies with bright red flowers atop tall flowering spears in the spring. Along the path are several swimmable pools fed by Heathcote Creek – the carved sandstone of the Kingfisher Pool is the largest and most picturesque.