INNISFAIL is a small but busy town on the Johnstone River and a good spot to find work picking bananas. Innisfail is worth a quick stop anyway as a reminder that modern Australia was in no way built by the British alone: there’s a sizeable Italian community here, represented by the handful of delicatessens displaying herb sausages and fresh pasta along central Edith Street. The tiny red Lit Sin Gong temple on Owen Street (and the huge longan tree next to it) was first established in the 1880s by migrant workers from southern China, who cleared scrub and created market gardens here; many of Innisfail’s banana plantations have been bought up recently by Hmong immigrants from Vietnam.

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