The Ba Be itinerary usually begins with a boat trip along the Nang River to Hang Puong, where the waters have tunnelled a three-hundred-metre-long, bat-filled cave through a mountain. From here they go on to the Dau Dang Waterfall, a stretch of beautiful but treacherous rapids. Take care if you walk on the slippery rocks around the falls as there has been at least one tourist fatality here. Next up is a visit to a Tay village on the lakeside, and on longer trips an overnight stay in a stilthouse. A road around the south end of the lake has made Pac Ngoi less of an isolated Tay community than it used to be, but several other villages in the area, such as Buoc Luom, Ban Vang and Bo Lu, can accommodate visitors too. Few Tay wear traditional dress these days, and you’re most likely to see it at a minority show at the National Park Guest House.

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