The Kuomintang live up to their Thai nickname – jiin haw, meaning “galloping Chinese” – by offering treks on horses, a rare sight in Thailand. Trips to Akha, Lahu and other Chinese villages can be arranged at the Shin Sane Guest House from B500 for four hours, but it’s worth meeting your guide and checking out the itinerary and the horses before you hand over any money.

Armed with a sketch map from one of the guesthouses, it would be possible to walk to some of the same villages yourself – or better still, hire a guide from Little Home Guest House for B200 per day.

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