Many of Chiang Mai’s top hotels now have full-service spas, and there are several upmarket stand-alones. However, the best traditional massages in town – no frills but highly skilled and good value – are likely to be had at the massage schools: the Old Medicine Hospital offers consistently good Thai, herbal and foot massages; on the opposite side of town, the offshoot of Wat Pho, Chetawan, charges B360 per hour for traditional massage; while out in the countryside at Baan Hom Samunprai, two-hour massages cost B600.

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