The most sacred of Nepal’s Hindu temple complexes is veiled by the smoke of funeral pyres.
At dawn and dusk, Buddhist monks, nuns and pilgrims flock to the vast white dome of the stupa.
As befits a tantric goddess demanding blood sacrifices, Bajra Yogini’s forest-enfolded shrine is palpably sinister.
Hike or bike through rich forest to the second highest (but most accessible) of the valley’s summits, at 2732m.
5 Newa Lahana, Kirtipur
The best traditional Newari food in Nepal is found in a community restaurant in one of the most atmospheric Newari towns.
This peaceful Hindu shrine is modestly hidden in one of the valley’s most delightfully rustic folds.
The most immaculately preserved of the valley’s ancient cities is no museum: Newari life continues here as it has for centuries.
Exquisitely carved ancient sculptures and a rural, ridgetop setting make this the finest of the valley’s temples.