It makes little sense to come to the homeland of Padang food without visiting at least one of the city’s restaurants. There’s no menu: you simply tell staff you want to eat and up to a dozen small plates are placed in front of you. Generally, the redder the sauce, the more explosive it is. At the southern end of Jl Pondok, due south of the market area towards the river, you’ll find a small night market of sate stalls. Another night market operates on Jl Imam Bonjol, a few hundred metres south of the junction with Jl Moh Yamin. More convenient for the hotels are the small restaurants on Jl Moh Yamin, near the junction with Jl Pemuda, which serve cheap and filling martabaks and sweet roti canai. Be aware that along Jl Pemuda things can get somewhat seedy at night.

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