Journeying along Indonesia’s longest river, the Sungai Kapuas, is an adventure that few travellers embark on, and means travelling with the locals and sharing deck space with whatever is being carted in that direction. Starting in Pontianak and ending in Putussibau, the five-day trip involves meandering along the murky river, cruising past local stilt villages and getting an insight into local life. Cargo boats carrying passengers leave from behind the Kapuas Indah building and depart early in the morning. It’s best to enquire about departures in advance because the service tends to be irregular. The houseboat usually provides a thin mattress to sleep on, and snacks are served on board.