East of Saraswati Ghat, Akbar’s fort is best appreciated from boats on the river. Much of it is still occupied by the military, and public access is restricted to the leafy corner around the Patalpuri Temple, approached through any of the three massive gates. Much of the superstructure is neglected; the zenana with its columned hall does survive, but its interior is closed to the public. At the main gate, a poorly restored polished stone Ashoka Pillar is inscribed with the emperor’s edicts and dated to 242 BC.

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