Beyond, the passageway leads to a two-storey pavilion known as the Musamman Burj, famous as the spot where he is said to have caught his last glimpse of the Taj Mahal before he died, and the most elaborately decorated structure in the fort. Its lattice-screen balustrade is dotted with ornamental niches and with exquisite pietra dura inlay covering almost every surface. In front of the tower a courtyard, paved with marble octagons, centres on a pachisi board where the emperor, following his father’s example at Fatehpur Sikri, played pachisi (a form of ludo) using dancing girls as pieces.

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