At the heart of town, the fort (Bala Qila) has more or less vanished under a clutch of modern buildings huddled around a central courtyard that now hosts the town’s colourful vegetable market. The dilapidated building on the far left-hand side of the courtyard (by the Bank of Baroda) boasts a magnificent, eerily echoing Sheesh Mahal, covered in mirrorwork, which once served as the dressing room of the maharani of Nawalgarh, its ceiling decorated with pictorial maps of Nawalgarh and Jaipur. You’ll have to pay Rs20–30 to see the room; if no one’s around, ask at the sweet factory on the opposite side of the courtyard.

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