The logical place to start a tour of Nawalgarh is on the east side of town at the magnificent Anandi Lal Podar Haveli, which now houses the Dr Ramnath A. Podar Haveli Museum. Built in 1920, this is one of the few havelis in Shekhawati to have been restored to its original glory, and boasts the most vivid murals in town, including steam trains, soldiers drilling with rifles, and a clever 3D-like panel of a bull’s head that transmogrifies into that of an elephant as you move from left to right. There’s also a mildly diverting series of exhibits showcasing aspects of Rajasthani life, including musical instruments and traditional costumes.

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