Heading west from the fort through the Nansa Gate (signed, confusingly, as the “Rambilas Podar Memorial Gate”) and following the road around brings you to the so-called Aath Haveli (“Eight Havelis”, built by eight brothers, although only six were actually completed), a complex of heavily decorated mansions featuring murals – some of which are in a poor condition – in a range of styles depicting the usual mishmash of subjects both ancient and modern. The nearby Moraka Uattara Haveli also has a richly painted exterior and mardana (men’s) courtyard, with elephants and horses framed in a mass of florid decoration.

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