On the northern edge of the city centre, the walled funerary complex of Royal Gaitor contains the stately marble mausoleums (chhatris) of Jaipur’s ruling family. The compound consists of two main courtyards, each crammed full of imposing memorials. The first (and more modern) courtyard is dominated by the grandiose twentieth-century cenotaph of Madho Singh II (d. 1922), a ruler of famously gargantuan appetites, whose four wives and fifty-odd concubines bore him “around 125” children. The second, older, courtyard is home to the elaborate tomb of Jai Singh II (d. 1743), the founder of Jaipur and the first ruler to be interred at Gaitor.

On the ridgetop above Gaitor (reachable via a steep set of stairs) lies the Ganesh Mandir, the second of the city’s two major Ganesh temples – a huge building instantly recognizable from the huge swastika painted on its side.

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