Perched high above Alwar is Bala Qila fort, whose well-preserved walls climb dramatically up and down the thickly wooded hillsides that rise above the town. There’s not much actually to see inside the fort – besides a temple and a few old cannons – but it’s a pleasant walk up from town, with fine views and fresh hill breezes. It takes about two hours to make the return trip on foot up to the fort’s outermost gate, or about twice that to reach the topmost point of the fortifications. If you don’t want to walk, you’ll have to arrange for a taxi through your hotel or the tourist office – the road up is too steep for cycle rickshaws.

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