The Ram Raja Mandir stands just west of the bazaar’s main crossroads, in a cool marble-tiled courtyard. Local legend has it that Madhukar Shah constructed the building as a palace for his wife, Rani Ganesha, and it only became a temple after a Rama icon, which the queen had dutifully carried all the way from her home town of Ayodhya, could not be lifted from the spot where she first set it down; it remains there to this day, and the temple is a popular pilgrimage site.

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13 tips for backpacking India

13 tips for backpacking India

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Video: a 2 minute guide to India

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