A path leads through the Mughal-style Phool Bagh ornamental garden to Hardaul ka Baithak, a grand pavilion where Bir Singh Deo’s second son, Hardaul, ally of Jahangir and romantic paragon, once held court. Newlyweds come here to seek blessing from Hardaul, who, despite being poisoned by his jealous brother who accused him of intimacy with his sister-in-law, is thought to confer good luck. The tall towers rising above the gardens like disregarded bridge supports are dastgirs (“wind-catchers”), Persian-style cooling towers that provided air-conditioning for the neighbouring palace, Palkhi Mahal; they’re thought to be the only ones of their kind surviving in India.

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