Khajuraho is a bustling epicentre during Phalguna (Feb/March), when the festival of Maha Shivratri draws pilgrims from all over the region to commemorate the marriage of Shiva and Parvati. It also hosts one of India’s premier dance events, the free Khajuraho Festival of Dance (Feb 20–26). There are shows of traditional dances with live music from the local area at the Tourist Facilitation Centre nightly at 6.30pm and 8pm, while the more commercial Khandariya Art and Cultural Centre, 1km south of the town centre, hosts performances of dance from across India most evenings; although the dancing is interesting, the music isn’t live and they seem more interested in luring you into their overpriced shop.

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