BRAHMOUR is a one-horse town of slate-roofed houses, apple trees and small maize fields, shadowed on all sides by high snowy peaks. The temples, whose curved shikharas dominate the large, neatly paved central square, are more dramatic and better preserved than their rivals at Chamba. The sanctuaries are unlocked only for puja in the mornings and evenings, permitting a glimpse of bold bronze images of Ganesh, Shiva and Parvati, unchanged since their installation in the seventh and eighth centuries when Brahmour was capital of the surrounding mountainous region. The efficient Mountaineering Institute has details of local treks, reliable guides and porters, and equipment for rent.

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