Brahmour is a delightful small town, made up of of slate-roofed houses, apple trees and small maize fields, draped across a verdant ridge above the river and shadowed on all sides by high snowy peaks. This gem of a place is well worth the effort to travel the extra distance from Chamba and you are likely to be rewarded by being the only foreigner in town. From the bus stand, the main street winds up through the bazaar area to the picturesque main square, which is dominated by the magnificent Chaurasi temple complex.

The temples, whose curved shikharas dominate the large, neatly paved central square, are more dramatic and better preserved than their rivals at Chamba. The sanctuaries are unlocked only for puja in the mornings and evenings, permitting a glimpse of bold bronze images of Shiva, Narsingh, Ganesh and Parvati, unchanged since their installation in the seventh and eighth centuries when Bharmour was capital of the surrounding mountainous region. A life-sized bronze Nandi bull, draped in a colourful cloth, stands under a shelter in front of the main Shiva temple, while a giant 25m deodar tree towers over the temple from behind.

Several rewarding trekking routes lead north from Bharmour over the Pir Panjal Range.

 

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