1 Rock Garden, Chandigarh

This bizarre and seemingly haphazard sculpture garden, assembled from rubbish by a local eccentric, and saved from demolition by public support, offers a curious contrast to the ordered city that surrounds it.

2 The Golden Temple, Amritsar

One of the great sights – and sounds – of India; kirtan (devotional songs) are performed throughout the day and into the night from the breathtaking golden Harmandir, which seems to float like a beautiful gilded boat upon the sacred pool surrounding it.

3 Jallianwalla Bagh, Amritsar

Site of the infamous Amritsar massacre, in which British troops gunned down unarmed demonstrators, as retold in a dramatic sound-and-light show.

4 Border ceremony, Wagha

Shorter and more colourful than a cricket match, the border ceremony is a highly charged event, especially on Sundays, when hundreds of people gather to swap honks, chants and cheers from the Indian and Pakistani sides.

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