CANDOLIM is prime package-tourist country, and not a resort that sees many backpackers, but, with a few pleasant places to stay tucked away down quiet back lanes, it can make a good first stop if you’ve just arrived in Goa. The busy strip running through the middle of town holds a string of banks and handy shops where you can stock up with essentials before moving further afield, and there are some great places to eat and drink, frequented mostly by boozy, middle-aged Brits and, increasingly, Russian charter tourists.

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