Pretty ASWEM, the next settlement north of Morjim, could hardly be described as a proper resort. Officially inside the Coastal Protection Zone, its beachfront holds few permanent buildings and most of the accommodation is in temporary structures. And yet, over the past few seasons, the strip of soft white sand nestled beneath its mand of slender palms has become the place to see and be seen by India’s seriously cool set. Mumbai millionaires, Bollywood A-listers and international celebs (including Paris Hilton) are regularly spotted in the swanky new resorts and clubs that recently opened in the dunes. A more down-to-earth scene holds sway around the headland to the south, which is family friendly, with lots of children playing on the beach. How long this stretch can hold out against the rising tide of bling, however, is anyone’s guess.

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