Bring warm clothing and plenty of snacks and water on your Karakoram journey. Travellers heading to Pakistan do not need to buy onward bus tickets – the ticket from Kashgar covers the whole route right through to Sust – but Western tourists should be aware that they’ll need to have arranged a Pakistani visa beforehand in their home country (though it’s worth checking the current state of play at their Beijing embassy; pakembassy.cn). Stamp in hand, the entry and exit formalities are dealt with a few hundred metres south from the bank, and are straightforward to the point of being lax. Note that cyclists are not allowed to ride their bikes through the pass, but have to bus it between Tashkurgan and Sust. As for Sust, there’s plenty of accommodation to go around, as well as places in which to change yuan for rupees.

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