Chaozhou is a great place to buy traditional arts and crafts. For something a bit unusual, the hardware market, just inside the Guangji Gate along Shangdong Ping Lu, has razor-sharp cleavers, kitchenware and old-style brass door rings. Temple trinkets, from banners to brass bells, ceramic statues – made at the nearby hamlet of Fengxi – and massive iron incense-burners, are sold at numerous stores in the vicinity of Kaiyuan Temple. It’s also a good area to find silk embroideries and ceramic tea sets – in fact Chaozhou considers itself the ceramics capital of China, and prices here are low.

For those who enjoy haggling, an impromptu antiques market springs up most mornings along the pavement of Huangcheng Lu outside Xihu Park, and in the evenings a mostly clothing night market competes with motorcyclists and cars for road space along Kaiyuan Lu.

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