About 60km east of Quanzhou, Chongwu (崇武古城, chóngwŭ gŭchéng) is an old walled city built entirely of stone, now nicely restored as a huge museum piece. The adjacent new town has one of southern China’s largest fishing fleets, with just about every man employed in this industry – the women work in local stone quarries, carting huge rocks around on carrypoles and wearing characteristic blue jackets and wide-brimmed straw hats.

Slightly closer to the southeast is the town of Shishi (石狮, shíshī), from where you can pick up a ride for the 5km to the beautiful Sisters-in-law Tower (姑嫂塔, gūsăo tă), another Song-dynasty monument, overlooking the coast. Finally, 30km south, just off the expressway to Xiamen and outside the town of Anhai, the spectacular 2km-long, 800-year-old Anping Bridge (安平桥, ānpíng qiáo) actually crosses a section of sea

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