Gulangyu Islet was Xiamen’s foreign concession until World War II, and remains more or less architecturally intact. The narrow tangle of lanes can be confusing, but the island’s size (it’s less than two square kilometres) means you can’t go very far wrong. A stroll through the streets will uncover plenty of attractions, especially along Fuzhou Lu (福州路, fúzhōu lù) and Guxin Lu (鼓新路, gŭxīn lù), overhung with flowers and blossom throughout the year. Crowds tend to gravitate to the main sights in the south of the island; on busy days you’ll find the northwest far quieter, with a surprising amount of lovely colonial buildings, along with three wooded hills and a small, near-deserted beach. Note that the only vehicles allowed on Gulangyu are battery-powered golf buggies.