You’ll appreciate Putuo’s beauty much more by making the trip to Huiji Temple and Fayu Temple on foot via the two excellent beaches that line the eastern shore: the windswept and empty Qianbu Sha (Thousand Step Beach) and more civilized Baibu Sha (Hundred Step Beach). Swimming is only permitted on Hundred Step Beach where there are overly-keen lifeguards with whistles, and also showers (¥10). Be careful where you swim and when, though, as the waters can be extremely dangerous. In summer, it’s possible to bring a sleeping bag and camp out on either beach; both are in easy reach of the restaurants along the road. The beaches are separated by a small headland hiding the cave of Chaoyang Dong. One kilometre south of Fayu Temple, the Dacheng Nunnery (大乘庵, dà chéng’ ān; daily 6am–6pm; ¥5) is notable for the reclining Buddha downstairs in the main hall, and the thousands of tiny seated Buddhas upstairs.

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