The hill station of MOGANSHAN, 60km north of Hangzhou, was popular before World War II with the fast foreign set, and is currently reprising its former role as a resort to escape the stifling summer heat. The old European-style villas and po-faced communist-style sanatoriums here are being restored and turned into guesthouses, bars and cafés; there’s little to do here but wander the incongruously European-looking village, hike in the bamboo forest with its many pagodas to rest in, and enjoy the views. The centre of the village is already starting to get pretty spoiled and overly-busy at weekends and in the summer, but a thirty-minute walk in any direction will take you into peace and quiet.

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