From 8am, boats set out from all along Dandong’s promenade, by the bridge, on 30min trips across the river (costing ¥50 in a large boat that leaves when full, or ¥70 per person for a zippy six-seater). The boats take you into North Korean waters to within a few metres of shore, where you can do your part for international relations by waving at the soldiers shouldering automatic rifles. Photography is allowed, but don’t try to snap anything vaguely military. If you’ve an interest in visiting, it’s best to check the current situation with Dandong’s CITS (0415 2132237), though foreigners will almost certainly be forbidden from joining their North Korean tour; try Koryo Tours (koryogroup.com) instead.

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