Nicknamed “Ghost Street” (簋街, guĭ jiē), a 1km-long stretch of Dongzhimennei Dajie is lined with hundreds of restaurants, all festooned with red lanterns and neon – a colourful and boisterous scene, particularly on weekends. Note that staff in these restaurants will probably speak little or no English; few places will have an English menu, but plenty have a picture menu. It’s an atmospheric place, for sure, though when the crowds arrive in the evening the whole street can resemble a car park.

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