There are regular traffic jams on NR4 south of Kirirom at the Pich Nil pass. This is due to Cambodian motorists breaking their journey to make offerings at the shrine of Yeah Mao, or Black Grandmother, who is believed to protect travellers and fishermen – the most popular story has it that she perished in the waves after setting out to find her husband who had left to fight at sea.

To pick out her shrine, follow the eye-watering haze of incense – a smoke-dimmed image of her can be found within it. The rows of spirit houses are recent additions and are a bit of a scam by local stallholders, but most Khmer would prefer to make an offering rather than risk offending the spirits.

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