The beaches in Kep aren’t up to much: slim stretches of dark sand that don’t lend themselves to lounging. Luckily, a number of trips to the offshore islands are on offer. Closest is Koh Tonsay (Rabbit Island), with three nice beaches. Further out, Koh Poh (Coral Island) has clean white sands, turquoise water, coral reefs and great snorkelling. The huge island that dominates the horizon is Phu Quoc, in Vietnamese waters; locals still call it Koh Kut, dating back to when it belonged to Cambodia.

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