Boats and their captains can be hired for a late afternoon cruise on the Mekong (around $10/hr, depending on the number of passengers; look out for the signs at the north end of the promenade), where you can sup a beer (bring your own) and watch the sun set behind the Royal Palace. Try friendly Crocodile Cruises (crocodilecruise.com), which offers free pick-ups and a little more style (and comfort) than other boats; theirs are fitted with cushioned armchairs and loungers.

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