Also known as the “Russian Market” because all its goods used to come from Russia, one of the few countries to provide aid to Cambodia during the Vietnamese occupation. The collapse of the USSR put paid to cheap imports, but ramshackle and tremendous, this market retains its reputation as the place to buy textiles, antiques and silver – not to mention motorbike parts. At the south end of the market you’ll find stalls selling bootleg DVDs, fake designer bags, silver jewellery, Chinese-style furniture, photocopied books, handicrafts and piles of multicoloured silks; book sellers colonize the west, and the north is taken over with hardware stalls, a small food quarter and mechanics workshops. It is charming in its dilapidation, though a high fire risk with narrow exit routes – it’s also meltingly hot.

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