The alleys around Wat Prayuvong, around 300m south of the Independence Monument, are the city’s centre for the manufacture of spirit houses (see Animism, ancestor worship and superstitions) and religious statuary – you can’t miss the brightly painted displays on the roadside. Although everything is now made in concrete, the artistry remains elaborate and the variety is fascinating; a number of artists here also do religious paintings, some on an impressive scale.

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