The small, flat Mudumu National Park covers the eastern riverbank and floodplains of a meandering channel of the Kwando River. Signposting is virtually non-existent and there is only a handful of sandy tracks – some of which peter out into bush – that weave their way through mopane, wild syringa, leadwood and mangosteen, nearly all within the strip of land between the main road and the river itself. That said, you’re likely to have the place to yourself – apart from the police, who occupy a small outpost to keep a watchful eye on cross-border activity – especially if you spend the night in one of the three bush camps.

    Birdwatching in the park is particularly rewarding; while dawdling along the river, watch out for African skimmers, cranes, storks, jacanas and ibis, while western-banded snake eagles can be sighted wheeling above. The water attracts larger visitors too: elephant and buffalo come to drink in large numbers, and roan and sable antelope and eland are also present. If you’re lucky, you might catch sight of a spotted-necked otter in the shallows. Consider also visiting the nearby Lizauli Traditional Village – well signposted off the main road to the north of the park – to learn more about Lozi traditional culture; it’s also an opportunity to purchase genuine local crafts.

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