All four established accommodation options offer much the same activities – sundowners, rafting (when there’s enough water), guided walks to look for crocodiles, and visits to Himba villages. For village visits, prices usually include the guide and transport but do not include the “payment” to the village. Generally food is taken, in agreement with the villagers: sacks of ground maize, cooking oil, sugar and the like, which can be purchased at the village store in Epupa. Check before signing up for an excursion exactly what is included and what is expected of you. There are also a couple of freelance Himba guides, for whom the going rate is N$100 per person, and you are usually expected to provide the transport. Kapei (t 081 338 1556, e [email protected]) is a reliable choice who has worked as a guide and translator for film crews and on research projects.