A pinprick on the map around 120km up the coast from Swakopmund, Cape Cross is home to the largest colony of Cape fur seals in the world. Though the landscape is bare and unremarkable, the seals draw a surprising number of visitors, and the walkway allows you to get close to the action: belligerent bulls tussling for supremacy and mating rights, trying to take chunks out of each other, and female seals and pups, squabbling, playing, dozing off in the sun, or struggling to get out of the surf as it lashes against the rocks.

Nearby is the Cape Cross itself – or rather a replica – which marks the spot where in 1484 Diago Cāo, a Portuguese explorer, erected a padrāo, or stone cross, in an attempt to claim the land for the king of Portugal.

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