The Lambwe valley’s tsetse-fly-ridden bush, protected as Ruma National Park, is one of the few places in Kenya where you can see Jackson’s hartebeest and two extremes of the antelope family: the miniature oribi and the enormous, horse-like roan , which is found only here. Roans are extremely rare, and the best place to see them is among the park’s western grasslands, which are often hit by community fires that spread into the park from the west – they like the fresh grazing on burnt ground. Ruma also has about seventy beautiful Rothschild’s giraffes which aren’t too hard to see above the tall grass. You’ll have more difficulty spotting leopards, the park’s only large predators, and you’ll be very lucky to spot one of Ruma’s prize denizens, the black rhinos translocated from Mugie ranch in Laikipia in 2012.

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