Some 10km northwest of Bahir Dar as the crow flies, Ura Kidane Mihret is arguably the most beautiful church in the Tana region. The monastery dates back to the fourteenth century, though the circular church was built in the sixteenth. Its inner walls are covered from top to bottom with hundreds of restored paintings that vividly depict every face of Ethiopian ecclesiastical life, from saints in torment and bloody battle scenes to devils and dragon-slayers. Look out too for the fainter line drawings on one of the doors, and be sure to take a turn round the museum, with its collection of ancient imperial crowns, religious tomes and other treasures.

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